Joe’s of Avenue U

Bountiful trays of Sicilian staples like chunky caponata, baked fennel au gratin and salt cod alla siciliana are proffered in Joe’s cafeterialike setting. If it’s a Friday or Saturday, you might choose pasta with sardines, wild fennel and pine nuts. Then try a thick fried snapper fillet, doused with the lightest of white-wine sauces. This is one of the last places outside Palermo where you can score a vestedda (fried spleen-and-cheese sandwich); the panelli (chickpea fritters) are heavenly when topped with ricotta and Parmesan and served on a roll.