Izzy & Nat’s (CLOSED)

Sparse, unremarkable decor belies the excellent food at this FiDi delicatessen. Spins on classics include a salmon trio appetizer: thinly sliced lox, pastrami-smoked salmon and vodka-and-dill-cured fish draped elegantly on a bed of greens. Matzo ball soup arrives bobbing with a single airy but giant dumpling that could go head-to-head with any Jewish grandmother’s. But the real draw is the sandwiches, which, in the tradition of the great Jewish delis, are layered with stratospheric piles of meat—try the juicy tongue or moist corned beef.