329 Greenwich St between Duane and Jay Sts (212-965-8560). Subway: 1 to Franklin St. Mon--Sat 6pm--midnight. Average main course: $24.
In both decor and spirit, Industria Argentina may be New York’s most thoroughly modern Argentine steakhouse. Owners Stefano Villa and Fernando Dallorso (who also co-own Novecento and Azul Bistro) have captured the cosmopolitan vibe of the real Buenos Aires—with an accompanying techno-inflected soundtrack. Oversize lamp shades anchor the room, bathing marble-topped tables in a warm orange glow. On the walls hang faux branches woven into brambly sculptures. Yes, you’ll see fish and pasta on the menu, but the real reason to come here, of course, is to feast on hunks of char-grilled meat. The presentation begins with a miniature flaky empanada delivered as an amuse-bouche—it’s more artful than it sounds. The tuna tiradito, often a rustic raw-fish jumble at other places, is a delicate appetizer option that layers frothy avocado puree atop silky tuna slices. Whisper-thin oven-dried tomato slivers are added to a ramekin filled with oozing smoked provolone, making for another stellar starter—who can resist warm, melted cheese? For the main event, the kitchen hews more closely to the classic steakhouse formula, serving flame-licked steaks with piquant chimichurri (an Argentine sauce). If you really love meat, check out the Tuesday night parrillada special, a mixed grill for two featuring a platter of lamb chops, sausages, hanger steak and short ribs.—TONY