Il Giglio

Celebrated chef Rolando Mendez knows the secret to keeping one of the city’s most celebrated kitchens in business: Turn the spotlight on the food. True, the dining room glows and the soft peach walls are adorned with the occasional frolicking-nymph tapestry. But all eyes are on the plates being handed out by the attentive staff. The headwaiter details the daily specials—an intoxicating escargot appetizer, marinated in garlic and mushrooms, for instance—with as much care as he would a marriage proposal. If you don’t order one of the specials, the entrée choices are a touch predictable—sautéed veal or chicken, say, prepared with a white-wine sauce. The sky-high check may cause a slight panic; perhaps the complimentary after-dinner liqueur will take the edge off.