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If you find yourself blinded by the lights of Little Italy and afraid to choose from among the multitude of indistinguishable ristorantes, don’t panic; just set a course for this sprawling eatery, which can be counted on to deliver a gratifying meal. The neoclassical décor is a bit more Secaucus than Sicily, but the dishes are 100% Italian. Request a table in the glass-enclosed atrium, enjoy the enthusiastic service from a friendly wait staff, and come hungry: the offerings here are hearty and huge.