Hoi An (CLOSED)

Itty-bitty Hoi An, decorated with silks and regional artwork, is both chic and cheap. Start with prettily served nem nuong, discs of seasoned pork wrapped in rice paper with herbs and lettuce leaves, then dipped in citrus-spiked nuoc cham.Ca kho to, fish simmered in caramel sauce, has a gentle kick of spice (it was, however, a tad bony and overcooked). The garlic-sautéed water spinach lightens the meal. A pho missed the boat, with too-thick slices of beef in a relatively flavorless broth, but the chef made up for that with a firm flan, accompanied by espresso syrup.