Hispaniola (CLOSED)

A leading light in northern Manhattan’s upscale Nuevo Latino movement, Hispaniola offers beautifully plated fusions of Caribbean and Asian cuisines in a lovely setting overlooking the GWB. While a surprisingly light steamed snapper proves a delicious union with caramelized plaintains, some things are better left unfused: An (overcooked) duck breast on a mound of shrimp fried rice suffers from the accompanying foie gras terrine. Simple starters like pillowy stuffed empanadas are also more successful than their fussier counterparts (a chicken and guava tortilla wrap is a confusing blend of color, taste and texture). But there’s nothing confusing about the gracious service and perfectly sweet mango cheesecake.