Hatsuhana

This midtown classic, popular among Metro-North travelers on shopping expeditions with their preteens, was one of the first restaurants to introduce New Yorkers to the then-mysterious delights of sushi and sashimi, nearly three decades ago. It’s still worth a visit for its lovely bento-style Box of Dreams, which is divided into nine compartments, like a tic-tac-toe board. In each is a different combination of sushi or cooked fish and vegetable over rice, such as a meaty, melt-on-your-tongue uni with seaweed and shiso; cooked eel with cucumber slices; and two triangles of tamago (slightly sweetened egg) with cooked shrimp. It’s a refreshing presentation, and a nice reminder that even an institution like Hatsuhana can remain inventive.