Hakubai

Over centuries, Japanese restaurants have refined the art of kaiseki ryori—a virtuoso progression of seasonal small plates. At Nadaman Hakubai, the 7-course meal might start with lightly battered, fried river fish and a tiny block of sweet, dense tofu. More recognizable Japanese dishes may follow, like miso soup and a selection of sashimi. At the centerpiece of the meal are three blissfully succulent blocks of kobe beef, grilled on rocks and served with tender bamboo and asparagus. Service is exceedingly attentive, and the pace of the meal is relaxed, although the brightly lit, blond-wood setting isn’t made for lounging. For that, you’ll have to get a room upstairs.