The offbeat mix of cuisines at this Tribeca eatery—California, Italian, and French, filtered through a Japanese lens—add up to a surprising success. Risotto gets its creamy texture and salty finish from uni and seaweed; fried Cajun lobster features the subtly spiced crustacean flash-fried in its split shell. Continental desserts such as a creamy tiramisu top off one of New York’s most singular dining experiences—one which offers a uniquely Japanese meal without serving much food from Japan.
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