Gobo (CLOSED)

Beechwood tables, black-and-white photography, mood lighting and bamboo candleholders create a clean, minimalist and sophisticated decor at this crowded restaurant, where waits can be up to an hour without reservations. Attentive and charming service enhances the appeal, as will the large range of faux meat plates like the soy fillet with coconut curry rice or green tea noodle with vegan Bolognese sauce, flavorful enough to entice even seitan skeptics. Health-conscious diners beware; much of the flavor comes from thick sweet-and- sour marinades, gooey ginger glazes and deep-frying.