Geido

During the dinner hour, this neighborhood favorite hums with the chatter of families and the clatter of a busy kitchen. Adventurous eaters are especially well-served by the wide-ranging menu, which encompasses Japanese standards as well as quirky endeavors like pumpkin croquettes (crispy batter around a creamy puree), corn tempura (clouds of crunchy batter and sweet kernels), natto maki (with earthy-smelling strands of fermented soybean) and okonomiyaki (whopping, sloppy pancakes of shredded vegetables and meat slathered with tangy mayo-tonkatsu sauce). Opposite a floor-to-ceiling medley of fingerpaint and crayon fashioned by restaurant patrons, a battalion of chefs turns out consistently fresh, well-presented and generously portioned sushi and sashimi.