Gansevoort 69 (CLOSED)

Those who recall the 24-hour revelry that was Florent—the pioneering diner that formerly occupied this MePa space—will find Gansevoort 69’s new cushy cream banquettes, subway-tile walls and dangling chandeliers rather slick. What was once a divey canteen for lovable freaks, trannies and artists is now the province of the yuppie postclub set. The menu has also gone trendy, with decent comfort food replacing Florent’s bistro staples. A golden sourdough grilled cheese was stuffed with truffled Gruyère and served with tomato bisque for dipping, and a jumbo lump crab cake was flavorful and meaty. For dessert there are thick shakes studded with chocolate flakes—twee confections tailor-made for a very different generation of club kids.