Fulton (CLOSED)

This welcome addition to the Citarella restaurant group—outfitted with exposed brick and vintage fish hooks—takes its inspiration from the iconic downtown fish market. Appetizers include tender grilled octopus and lightly fried, Parmesan-crusted calamari. The kitchen shines with seasonal entrées such as flaky halibut with sweet corn and chanterelles, scattered with tiny poached rock shrimp and black cod given a lift with airy horseradish foam. Despite the aquatic focus, landlubber fare is surprisingly solid: A massive house-aged strip steak offers an alluring funk.