Fritzl's Lunch Box (CLOSED)

Young toque Dan Ross-Leutwyler, who cut his teeth at Fatty 'Cue and the shuttered Bellwether, modernizes the midcentury sandwich shop for his solo debut, in Bushwick's blossoming dining scene. The cheery interior—canary yellow walls, weathered oak floorboards and a touch of tie-dye on curtains hiding the kitchen—opens into a verdant backyard, where neighbors chow down on homey fare. Ross-Leutwyler puts an international spin on the luncheonette menu, with options like Basque-style fried bacalao with paprika aioli, and crispy lamb tempered by spicy cilantro-flecked yogurt and tart-sweet pickled beets, in addition to American classics, such as burgers and fried chicken on Martin's potato rolls. Rounding out dinner options are chefly bites (charred smelts and blood-sausage tamales), salads (sesame-ginger-dressed kale with black radish) and pastas (fennel-and-sardine-accented bucatini con le sarde). A short list of seven wines and eight beers, Tecate and Sixpoint included, help wash down the globe-trotting provisions.