Fragole

Generations of Italian families and neighborhood parents with stroller-ensconced tots come for modestly priced fare, whose lack of pretense is celebrated right on the menu: “No fancy sauces, no frills or nouvelle cuisine.” As advertised, the carpaccio del cuore is dressed simply with salt, pepper and olive oil and complemented with avocado and tomato. In the fettuccine Bella Elena, house-made noodles are tossed with tomato sauce, cream, peas and a regrettably skimpy amount of sweet sausage. Tagliata Toscana, on the other hand, is a bountiful platter of grilled, sliced sirloin steak on a bed of crunchy greens.