Though Herald Square might conjure visions of grubby chain restaurants and dirty-water dogs, junk-food junkies shouldn’t miss this retro-outfitted, truck stop–style diner. Heart-stoppingly greasy “Frito Lay Pie” bursts forth from a split Fritos bag with layers of chili, sour cream and alien-orange cheddar sprawling over the namesake chips, and moist, crisp, pleasantly salty fried chicken comes with gooey mac ’n’ cheese. Po’ boys were less fun—flaky fried tilapia was overwhelmed by a mealy bun—but the accompanying boat of Tater Tots made us wax nostalgic for cafeteria food.
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