F.illi Ponte (CLOSED)

F.illi Ponte has its priorities straight. The photos of Joe Torre et al. are hung in a back room; solidly authentic food from the old country is the main event; and the two upstairs dining rooms yield spectacular views across the Hudson through 16-foot windows. The wine is poured right to the rim (a collection of 2,000 bottles takes up the top three floors of this former longshoremen’s hotel). Start with the antipasto misto, which includes a shrimp the size of a fist. Continue with a meaty pasta, then top it off with the huge, fork-tender osso buco or a platter of “angry lobster,” cooked with hot peppers and oil. Then you can give up eating for a week.