Ethos

Fragments of “ancient” frescoes and urns adorn the brick walls, and the open kitchen is festooned with corny but festive fruits, vegetables and cans of olive oil. An entrée of tender braised lamb in a clay pot is bathed in zesty tomato sauce. Fresh fish, charcoal-grilled and dressed in olive oil, lemon and herbs, was flavorful but overcooked. And an appetizer of ouzokeftethes, meatballs in an ouzo sauce, tasted overprocessed. Still, during the dinner hour, the dining room buzzes with families—it must be the friendly prices and fun atmosphere that keep them coming.