El Ranchito (CLOSED)

It’s unconscionable that many of us still have to travel so far to get good pupusas, but this homey place makes it worth the trip. Ask for curtido, the requisite coleslaw-like accompaniment. Beyond the pupusas are dependable dishes like sautéed chicken and sirloin steak topped with vegetables—hot sauce is optional. You could order a beer, but you shouldn’t miss the chance to sample chan, a weird fruit-punch drink thickened with gelatinous seeds.