El Faro (CLOSED)

At 77, El Faro claims to be New York’s oldest Spanish restaurant. Yes, the flamenco murals have browned, and the tabletops have yellowed. One has to wonder, though: Has the paella always been this bland? Has the garlic always been so elusive in the shrimp al ajillo? And have the spicy clams burgalesa always been one of the few dishes with pizzazz? Maybe. But in truth, it hardly matters. Every longtime New Yorker has an El Faro story; that history, along with the atmosphere and fine sangria, is what keeps crowds coming back.