Duvet (CLOSED)

Bed and Duvet opened almost simultaneously at the end of 2004, both offering New Yorkers the chance to eat and drink in bed—specifically, on dozens of oversize beds with superfirm mattresses, storage areas for shoes and purses, and end tables for drinks. Unfortunately, Duvet comes across more as a theme park than an enjoyable lounge. The design includes a giant TV and ever-changing colored lights, and the cocktail menu lists overly complicated sugary drinks with names like Sweet Dream and Pillow Talk. The menus are flimsy photocopies. On the upside, chef David Coleman, formerly of Union Pacific, has put together some provocative Asian-inspired dishes including a perfectly crisp eel with ruby-red grapefruit and watercress, and wild striped bass with caramelized citrus and pistachios.