Dong Yi Feng

The name of this bi-level Flushing establishment roughly translates to “good kitchen,” and it’s fitting, given the solid, if unadventurous, choices available in its dining rooms. Filling a gap in the market for slowpoke souls who can’t handle hard-nosed steamer hustling, things move at a sedate pace, as cart pushers willingly linger tableside and offer advice to deliberating diners, many of them longtime regulars. Considered choices yield results like deep-fried crullers (zhaliang), packed with sautéed bean sprouts and carrots and wrapped in soft rice noodles, making them at once juicy, crunchy and tender. Chunks of daikon in the pan-fried leek dumplings (jiu cai bao) add an unusual crunch and radishy tang that bites through the thick golden crust. Even the simple glutinous rice balls (jian dui), usually an afterthought, have extra-generous globs of nutty lotus-paste filling.