Dolcino

The owners named their trattoria after their birthplace, a coastal town in Montenegro, but other than a seaside mural by the bar, there’s nothing beachy about the rather formal, mahogany-walled dining room. The consistent kitchen prepares reliable Italian food from North to South, including fresh Mediterranean catches like branzino and numerous sauce-and-cheese variations on veal scaloppine (try it with mushrooms, cream and a drizzle of white truffle oil). Service is gentlemanly; the room, conversation-friendly and…my goodness, we’ve been here for quite a while, haven’t we?