dinnertable (CLOSED)

With the continued popularity of modern speakeasies, it’s no longer rare to find bars clandestinely tucked behind telephone booths or hidden above a burger joint, like the Garret. When the team expanded to Avenue A with the Garret East, it seemingly shed its original speakeasy conceit—until a further look, that is. A doorbell installed inside the bar leads to a “reverse speakeasy” restaurant helmed by husband-and-wife chefs Scott Tacinelli and Angie Rito (Quality Italian). Situated with marble tabletops, linen place mats and framed food photos, the 20-seat eatery centers on family-style dishes: smoked short-rib tartare served with marble rye, dumplings with potato and pecorino, and a cappellacci nestling braised veal, guanciale and black garlic. The Garret barman Grant Wheeler moonlights here, complementing the fare with Italian beers, bottled cocktails poured tableside (Moscow mule, negroni) and a rotating list of biodynamic wines.