Dévi (CLOSED)

There are moments when Dévi, an upscale homage to Indian cuisines, shines—as in a toothsome Lahori chicken curry packed with whole cloves, cardamom and peppercorns, or an addictive plate of meaty shrimp marooned on a rich turmeric-colored reduction of tomatoes, chilies, onions and coconut milk. And the bi-level space, outfitted with crushed-velvet banquettes and jewel-toned lanterns conveys a serenity that’s complemented by a warm wait staff. But Dévi fails to truly soar because it stumbles over the simplest dishes—yogurt-marinated tandoori lamb chops are bland, and bhel puri, the ubiquitous Indian snack of puffed rice, chickpea noodles, tomatoes, onions and chutneys, lacks the spicy-sweet, fiery-cool harmony that should leave your mouth happily aglow. A saving grace are desserts like saffron bread pudding bathed in cardamom cream and almond brittle.