Cozinha Latina (CLOSED)

In stark contrast to the chefs behind the vaguely Latin Brooklyn haunts of late (El Cortez, Lorenzo’s), Brazilian-American toque Shanna Pacifico (Savoy, Back Forty) follows up on her now-shuttered Pacifico’s Fine Foods with this faithful depiction of the cozinha, the sacred kitchen space in traditional Latin homes. On the seasonally minded menu, Pacifico employs market-driven produce and heritage meats in dishes ranging from small plates (six-minute egg in cumin brown butter, pao de queijo bread) to large-format spreads (piri piri baby chicken, beer-braised pork shank). The 48-seat dining room is fitted with wooden boxes of greenery, reclaimed wood tables and walls decked out in graffiti by famed Brazilian street artist Pixote. Like the food and art, tropical cocktails by Brett Helms (Uncle Boons), including a house caipirinha, a guarana-juiced Sao Paolo Scotch Smash and a sugarcase-spirit coconut slurped through two straws, also veer south of the equator.