Convivio (CLOSED)

Chef Michael White’s revision of Scott Conant’s L’Impero has brought the Tudor City spot to new heights. The emphasis is squarely on Southern Italy, with antipasti such as country bread slathered with chicken liver mousse and hauntingly good pastas—saffron gnocchetti arrive with crabmeat, sea urchin, chili flakes, scallion and garlic. Pastry chef Heather Bertinetti maintains the quality through dessert. Though we generally avoid chocolate cake, our server’s insistence that it was moist, not oversweet and flavorful proved correct.