Cocina Cuzco (CLOSED)

Large and tranquil, this colorful corner restaurant has fish tanks flanking the bar—appropriate for a place with such creative and generous ceviches. (Don’t worry: Not one denizen of the tank was harmed in the making of your meal.) The marinated fish is amply portioned and moderately priced: Cubes of ruby-red tuna drenched in lime, red onion, cilantro and coconut milk (served in a coconut half) could make a meal for one or an appetizer for two. Peruvian standards, such as spice-rubbed rotisserie chicken and chanchito, a sweet, glazed roasted pork, are also well executed. If only the gone-fishin’ waitstaff would get dishes to the table faster. Desserts like plátano de picarón, sweet banana fritters topped with vanilla ice cream, and a warm chocolate empanada, finish things swimmingly.