Chimu

Chimu showcases the diverse flavors from the Andean coast and countryside. Pride of place belongs to the splendidly marinated ceviche mixto, a platter of shrimp, crab, mussels and white fish, seasoned with lime and cilantro and served with the requisite sweet potato and corn. Nicely turned-out appetizers include the papa rellena (mashed potato pie filled with meat or shrimp) and the tamal criollo (chicken-stuffed corn pie). Entrées sometimes stumble over unusual combinations like Peruvian-style spaghetti with chicken and soy sauce. Straightforward dishes, like the entraña (grilled skirt steak) brushed with olive oil and garlic, are less likely to disappoint. In warm weather, the backyard makes a pleasant retreat from the rather dark dining room, with fountains drowning out the traffic along the nearby BQE.