With Sons of Essex, nightlife vet Matt Levine conjured an ode to old Gotham, a Bowery Boys period piece of Kossar's bialys, aged tenement photos and pre-Prohibition cocktails. For this 70-seat farmhouse, Levine looks to modern-day New York's fixation on all things local. Michelin-starred chef Joe Isidori (Arthur on Smith, Vegas's DJT) is behind the stove, turning out seasonally minded fare like Montauk pearl oysters with toasted curry and sudachi (a yuzu-like citrus); Hudson Valley pan chicken with oyster-sauce Chinese greens; and côte de boeuf with Greenmarket rutabaga gratin. Bolstering the country-in-the-city scheme, the rustic scene is painted with gingham napkins, weathered wood tables and vintage wind vanes, while a kitchen ceiling sports Basquiat prints as a nod to ’80s NYC. Farm-to-table boozers can get their greens in with wasabi margaritas and kale martinis—that's right—showcasing herbs and succulents grown in the dining room.
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