Centrico (CLOSED)

Aarón Sanchez, cohost of the Food Network’s Melting Pot, brings a deft hand to a long and inviting selection of Latin dishes. The fare is complex, such as sweet corn tarts that combine roasted tomato with a creamy-fiery blend of tomatillo and avocado. The plantains, filled with mashed smoky black beans, are lighter than you might expect plantains could be. It would be easy to order only small plates—frog legs, oysters, ceviche. But then you’d miss two of Centrico’s best dishes: braised suckling pig, and grilled flattened chicken that oozes flavor thanks to chipotle, garlic and lime.