Celeste

There’s hardly room to breathe—let alone eat—at this popular Upper West Side spot. Celeste offers authentic fare in a country setting, and has a large fan club. A wait is to be expected, but you can call ahead to see how long it’ll be. Once you’re in, start with carciofi fritti, fried artichokes that are so light, they’re evanescent. Three homemade pastas are prepared daily by chef Giancarlo Quadalti; the tagliatelle with shrimp, cabbage and pecorino stands out. Carb watchers are offered dishes like chicken cutlet with crushed almonds. Those who can manage a few more bites are advised to try the pastiera, a grain-and-ricotta cake flavored with candied fruit and orange-blossom water.