A visit to Café Chelsea in New York City is like being transported to a restaurant in that titular neighborhood in the year that is now: 2023. It would probably land the same even if you were traveling from the relatively recent past, or near future. It opened this past July, following last year’s related El Quijote revival.
The Hotel Chelsea-adjacent space is as pretty as gaslight’s glow, in all its flattering, honeyed cast. Mirrors, Deco-style fixtures and potted plants adorn the pretty space, divided into bar, Petite and Grand Café sections. The former gets as crowded as can be, so try not to arrive too early for your reservation. Tables in the latter two are spaced inside-voice close, so curb any tattling.
Swap those tall tales, instead, with tipples like the Christo’s vesper ($18), made with vodka, botanical spirit Empirical Symphony, Lillet and herbes de Provence, nicely standard martinis ($22), wine and beer. The dinner menu starts with coarse duck and pork pâté ($17), shrimp cocktail ($24) served on its sides rather than curved over glass in what seems to be an encroaching trend, properly baconed frisée aux lardons ($19) and ravioles du dauphiné ($18) that will be ideal for picky kids should Café Chelsea’s hotspot environment eventually cool. Steak frites ($42), poulet rôti ($32), a grilled loup de mer ($32) and an omelet ($24) are among the mains ($24).
Cafe Chelsea is located at 218 West 23rd Street.