Bull & Bear

The classic dark-wood decor at the Waldorf-Astoria’s revamped, supposedly New York–style steakhouse might be its only authentic feature. A $44 rib eye had plenty of grill-marked flavor, but sides (gluey Stilton mashed potatoes) and desserts (cloyingly sweet rice pudding) were a letdown. Plus, the price-to-quality ratio is hard to swallow: A $17 “barbecue Creole spiced prawn” appetizer featured three undercooked head-on shrimp. Despite the many shortcomings, few frowns were visible among the tourist-heavy crowd. We can only assume they’ve never been to a real New York steakhouse.