In the Nigerian language of Hausa, Buka is a small hole-in-the-wall eatery, which does not describe this high-ceilinged, brick-walled Clinton Hill spot. However, despite the swanky trappings—which include a DJ booth, a chandelier and, most delightfully, a yellow Volkswagen T3 retrofitted to house a table for four—the food itself is authentic Buka food. Start with fufu, pounded yam flour that takes the shape of a bun but lacks the absorbency of bread, using it to scoop up stews and mashes that come with additional sauces on top. If you don’t like foods with slimy textures, steer clear of the okra dishes. Picky eaters should have no problem getting behind akara, black-eyed pea fritters that come with a couple of tangy sauces, and more adventurous folks might want to try the rich and spicy goat-head stew.
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