Many talented chefs have come and gone since this place opened in 2003. Look for old standards like thin-crust pizzas, juicy roasted chicken and tender octopus. If anything’s changed since the early days, it’s the prices and service: The chicken went from $18 to $25, and we spent way too long waiting for our food during one recent visit. But the space is still wonderfully airy and loftlike—with 12-foot ceilings, soaring windows and a gleaming open kitchen.
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