Bottino

The subtly lit dining room and bar are beautifully appointed—dark wood, whitewashed brick walls, tangerine banquettes, Knoll and Eames furniture. No wonder Bottino draws local galleristas. But well-integrated decor doesn’t make the food less patchy. Starters (fritto misto, salads) are fresh and tasty, but main courses tend to be unimaginative; our pork loin with mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe was neither well seasoned nor particularly well cooked. The service (hands-off for nonregulars) could use some tweaking, too. The bittersweet chocolate pudding, or perhaps the ivied garden, may help to restore your faith.