When the Bond clothing store on 45th Street—with its iconic decades-old signage—was converted to a restaurant in 2005, it became a hub not so much for foodies as for Broadway’s movers and shakers (and hopefuls) as well as hungry hordes of theatergoers. After closing in 2016, it reopened in a new incarnation on 46th Street (across from Hamilton). It’s an ill-advised sequel. The suspension of disbelief necessary to fall for its allure is gone, drowned in too much franchisey gloss. Now it’s just not-Sardi’s. But if you go, try the pastrami spaghetti carbonara with everything-bagel spice. It’s not a showstopper, but it’ll win you over with its plucky razzle-dazzle.
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