Black Duck (CLOSED)

The Black Duck was a Prohibition-era booze ship, hence the concentration on seafood (although duck is on the menu). New England clam chowder gets a boost from chive oil and crab; the crab-and-rock-shrimp cake is surrounded by a green-apple salad and caper rémoulade. Entrées, however, suffered a bit from extra accents. Fresh Long Island fluke was moist and flaky, but its pistachio crust was too thick. The artichoke puree it rested upon would fare better next to the New York strip steak, an excellent cut of beef that didn’t need the blue cheese melted on top. After-work drinkers dodging the Flatiron hordes should try the Black Duck’s wainscoted bar.