Photograph: Loren Wohl
Photograph: Loren Wohl |

Fried chicken at Hanjan

Best Seoul food: Hanjan

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RECOMMENDED: Food & Drink Awards 2013

While the English gastropub has reigned supreme in Gotham, it’s worth remembering that the rest of the world has its own versions of the form—German biergartens, Japanese izakaya and the Korean joomak. Hanjan is a shining example of the latter, delivering exactly what the city’s nocturnal gastronauts crave most: a new and exciting way to drink and eat at the same damn time. Strap in for a barrage of deeply satisfying dishes—glutinous rice cakes licked with spicy pork fat; crispy scallion pancakes studded with squid; and skewers of fresh chicken thighs that you can swab with funky ssamjang. Each plate packs its own surprises, but the whole feast is tied together by a soulful bass note melding sweetness, spice and just the right amount of fishy funk. By the end of the meal, you’ll be full, happy and maybe a little tipsy—just the right state of mind to shout “YOLO!” and order a fiery communal bowl of the late-night-only Korean ramen. Hanjan, 36 W 26th St between Broadway and Sixth Ave (212-206-7226, hanjan26.com)

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