The ceiling and walls are hung with pipes, some from such long-ago Keens regulars as Babe Ruth, J.P. Morgan and Teddy Roosevelt. Even in these nonsmoking days, you can catch a whiff of the restaurant’s nearly 140-plus years of history. Beveled-glass doors, two working fireplaces and a forest’s worth of dark wood.
What to order: A mouthwatering steak or a three-inch-thick mutton chop.