Credit chef Yuji Haraguchi with bringing mazemen—Tokyo’s newfangled brothless ramen—to the New York masses. Among his nouveau creations, our favorite is this rich, breakfasty version. Break the wobbly, slow-cooked egg onto the tangle of thick, chewy, hand-massaged noodles and smoked bacon to create a luscious carbonara-style sauce. Shredded raw kale and bonito flakes add bitterness and brine to the rich, yolk-drenched noodles, finished with scallion, ginger oil and crispy garlic chips. 95 E Houston St at Bowery (212-420-1320) $9.—Suzanne Lehrer
New York toques stepped up to the plate this year when it came to dispatching next-level noodles. Justin Smillie elevated a simple Roman staple, Ryuji Irie brought restorative ramen to the unassuming Fulton Mall and Danny Bowien put his white-hot touch on spicy Chinese dandan mian. Study up on the top strands of the year.
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