Barbuto (CLOSED)

Owner Fabrizio Ferri (who runs the Industria Superstudio complex) teamed with chef Jonathan Waxman to create this seasonal restaurant anchored by both a brick- and a wood-oven. Most entreés are priced under 20 bucks, and the earthy cooking is top-notch. Marvelously light calamari comes in lemon-garlic sauce; chitarra all’aia mixes pasta with crushed walnuts, garlic, olive oil and Parmesan; fried Vermont veal is faultless. In the summer, the garage doors go up and the crowd of stylists, assistants, yuppies and West Village whatevers mob the corner from breakfast until last call.