Bahar

With outstanding kebabs, sumptuous biryani and an impressive variety of vegetable dishes, Bahar compensates for the unfortunate paucity of Afghani restaurants on the New York culinary map. The restaurant proudly displays its roots with a history and map of Afghanistan on the menu and traditional rugs covering the walls. An entire meal could be made from the cheap, delicious appetizers: bolani kudu, crisp turnovers stuffed with a sweet pumpkin puree; the slightly cloying fesenjon (chicken in pomegranate juice) that’s worth ordering for the novelty of the dish alone; and the lusciously smooth banjan burani (stewed eggplant with yogurt). Yet the exceptional, paella-like biryani (rice with meat or vegetables), especially when combined with the tangy house yogurt sauce, is reason enough to return to Bahar.