Avra

Arched doorways and fabric draped like sails from wooden beams evoke a seaside village at this breezy Greek taverna. Start with appetizers such as grilled whole sardines or squid stuffed with feta. Composed plates—like the salmon Corfu, wrapped in grape leaves—are dependable, but in-the-know diners select fresh fish, priced by the pound, from the display. Order whatever looks good, be it flaky dorado or mild loup de mer, prepared the traditional way: charcoal-grilled and dressed with lemon juice, olive oil and oregano.