Asian Jewels Seafood

A gilded and chandeliered palace, this Flushing staple is a proud prototype of dim sum grandeur, but when the crowds swell on weekend mornings, every available cranny (including some that possibly double as supply closets) is put to use. A contrast with the stuffy finery, the dumpling options trundling by on carts are refreshingly elemental. Shrimp dumplings ($3.95)—shaped to resemble little bunnies—are superb in their simplicity: translucent steamed wrappers bursting with thumb-size nuggets of unadorned prawn. Slow-braised chunks of eggplant (niang qiezi, $3.95) are held together with crusted dollops of dense, briny seafood paste. Offering a respite from the oceanic selections, fresh banana rolls (xiangjiao juan, $3.95) with custard and red-bean paste are wrapped in crispy pastry and dusted with toasted coconut.