Aretsky’s Patroon

Smokers at Patroon (which retains its in-house humidor) may ascend to the roof to puff in midtown bigwig style. Down in the restaurant, the kitchen dishes out simple steakhouse fare in mover-shaker portions. Of course, as any Volvo driver can attest, conservative does not mean cheap (six cocktail shrimp, $24). The steaks embody the pleasures of the flesh. Even some fish entrées tilt toward the bovine; the halibut “porterhouse” is twice the thickness of a Delmonico beefsteak. Sides, like creamed spinach, are just what you’d expect: heavy and delicious. For dessert, there’s the showy tableside preparation of bananas Foster. And with a fine selection of brandies, Patroon offers a number of ways to get lit.