Antica Venezia (CLOSED)

The West Village has almost as many forgettable Italian restaurants as Little Italy. This eatery on the Hudson—replacing the oft-empty Uguale—seems to promise a significant detour from the middling norm. The space is inviting; it’s an old-fashioned candlelit dining room. But the prices are high and the food is mediocre at best. You’ll get a warm and heartfelt reception followed by a parade of preamble nibbles (bruschetta, fried zucchini, Parmesan hunks). Stop right there and you might walk away happy. The generic food that follows will dispel any illusion you’ve uncovered a gem. The carpaccio is a big soppy mess. Shrimp Fra Diavolo has kick but no flavor. Capellini with clams needs a handful of salt. Even the pyrotechnic dessert—tableside flambéed bananas and peaches—won’t help dull the pain in your wallet.