Angelo’s of Mulberry Street

After more than 100 years of offering traditional Neapolitan fare, Angelo’s is riding a wave of Italo-American day-trippers, too-friendly Midwestern tourists and older-generation locals. The frescoed walls might be a little faded and the servers a little world-weary, but it’s still a joy to sit at one of the coveted sidewalk tables on a balmy evening and watch the Mulberry Street parade. The food is no competition for the show, but homemade pastas like the maccheroncelli in a beefy bolognese are satisfying and very generously portioned. Rabbit—one of the more interesting entrées—is tender and delicate. For dessert, you would be better off getting a scoop of gelato from a sidewalk vendor and joining the evening strollers.